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106-Year-Old Tattoo Artist Preserves Ancient Filipino Tattoo Traditions

Apo Whang-Od, at the impressive age of 106, has achieved a remarkable milestone as the oldest individual ever to grace the cover of Vogue magazine. More than just a historical icon, Whang-Od’s story is deeply interwoven with the ancient art of Filipino tattooing. Known in her native Philippines as Maria Oggay, she has dedicated her life to the traditional hand-tapping tattoo technique, known as “mambabatok,” which has been passed down through generations for over a thousand years.

Mrs. Whang-Od.
Mrs. Whang-Od.

Preserving Ancient Traditions in Kalinga

Residing in the secluded village of Buscalan in the northern Kalinga province, Whang-Od is recognized as the last mambabatok of her time. This ancient method involves using a bamboo stick and a thorn from a grapefruit or lemon tree, dipped in a mixture of water and charcoal, to imprint the skin with traditional designs. Historically, these tattoos were markers of significant life thresholds, signifying adulthood and valor among tribe members. For men, the tattoos symbolize their transition into formidable warriors, while for women, they represent nobility and beauty.

One of the ancient tattoo sketches from Kalinga village. (Photo: Lars Krutak).
One of the ancient tattoo sketches from Kalinga village. (Photo: Lars Krutak).
Mrs. Whang-Od is tattooing a tourist. (Photo: The New York Times).
Mrs. Whang-Od is tattooing a tourist. (Photo: The New York Times).
Ms. Whang-Od took pictures with tattoo customers. (Photo: Independent UK).
Ms. Whang-Od took pictures with tattoo customers. (Photo: Independent UK).

Despite the simplicity of her designs by modern standards, Whang-Od’s tattoos attract numerous international visitors seeking unique and authentic creations. Some of her extensive tattoos, such as those covering the chest, shoulder, and arm, can take days to complete, costing as much as a large pig or several kilograms of rice.

Vogue Philippines’ Tribute to Filipino Strength and Beauty

Vogue Philippines lauds Whang-Od for her work, which embodies the strength and beauty of the Filipino spirit. Bea Valdes, the magazine’s Editor-in-Chief, chose Whang-Od for the cover to symbolize the pinnacle of Philippine cultural heritage. According to Vogue editor Audrey Carpio, the ancient practice of batok tattooing is ensured a future through Whang-Od’s dedication to educating her descendants in the art.

Mrs. Whang-Od. on the cover of VOGUE magazine
Mrs. Whang-Od. on the cover of VOGUE magazine
On Whang-Od’s skin is inscribed her life story, from accomplishments to ailments and names of long-gone lovers.
Photography by Artu Nepomuceno
On Whang-Od’s skin is inscribed her life story, from accomplishments to ailments and names of long-gone lovers. Photography by Artu Nepomuceno
Whang-Od was conferred the Dangal ng Haraya award in 2018, and the campaign is still on to raise her to a National Living Treasure or even a National Artist.
Photography by Artu Nepomuceno
Whang-Od was conferred the Dangal ng Haraya award in 2018, and the campaign is still on to raise her to a National Living Treasure or even a National Artist. Photography by Artu Nepomuceno

Whang-Od’s commitment extends beyond preserving the technical aspects of mambabatok; she is actively shaping a burgeoning tattoo tourism industry in her community. Although modern recipients of her tattoos no longer adhere to the traditional tribal significances, they are drawn by the allure of receiving a piece of living history from the oldest mambabatok.

Overcoming Cultural Challenges and Looking Ahead

Despite facing cultural suppression during the early 20th century when the Philippines was colonized and Christianity introduced, Whang-Od continued her practice, primarily tattooing women from her tribe. Her recognition surged in 2007 when anthropologist Lars Krutak discovered her while filming for the Discovery Channel’s “Tattoo Hunters,” helping her gain international fame.

Mrs. Whang-od has a thin and slightly hunchbacked figure but is still extremely healthy. Along her collarbone and from her shoulder blades to the back of her hands, there are tattoos adapted from patterns on the skin of snakes, pythons and caterpillars - Kalinga\'s symbols of protection and strength. In addition, she also has small tattoos nestled in the wrinkles on her chin and forehead.
Mrs. Whang-od has a thin and slightly hunchbacked figure but is still extremely healthy. Along her collarbone and from her shoulder blades to the back of her hands, there are tattoos adapted from patterns on the skin of snakes, pythons and caterpillars - Kalinga's symbols of protection and strength. In addition, she also has small tattoos nestled in the wrinkles on her chin and forehead.

Whang-Od’s resolute spirit ensures that the mambabatok tradition will not vanish. Training only her blood relatives, she is confident about the future of this ancient art. Whang-Od believes in working as long as her health permits, famously stating, “As long as I can see clearly, I will continue to tattoo. I only stop when my eyesight is blurred.”

Apo Whang-Od’s story is not just about tattooing; it’s a testament to the resilience of cultural practices and the power of one individual to influence the preservation and recognition of their heritage. Her life and art continue to inspire and resonate with people around the world, symbolizing the enduring legacy of Filipino cultural identity.

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